Understanding the Russian Manicure
For years, the Russian manicure remained a secret in the nail world, known only to select techs in high-end salons. This precise method involves performing an e-file technique that removes cuticles for a cleaner, longer-lasting finish. It wasn’t until it went viral on TikTok that more people started searching for it, making “what’s a Russian manicure,” “Russian manicure NYC,” and “Russian manicure Chicago” some of the most searched beauty queries on Google. The trend quickly gained momentum, drawing attention to both its impressive results and its controversial approach to cuticle care.
I first heard about the technique in 2016, long before it became widely recognized. Back then, barely anyone knew about it, but today, clients actively look for salons that specialize in this service. Natalie Zheltovski, an expert and educator, who is the owner of Austin Nail Art House Academy + Salon, has been at the forefront of this shift, helping to promote the method. Her work with high-profile clients has contributed to the surge in popularity. Whether you are new to the trend or just curious, knowing the ins and outs of the Russian manicure is essential. In this post, I’ll share everything you need to know, including whether it’s safe and expert-backed tips to get the best experience.
What is a Russian manicure?
The Russian manicure is not just a visual style like a French manicure but rather a grooming technique designed for a cleaner, longer-lasting nail finish. Also known as a combination manicure, e-file manicure, or dry manicure, this technique eliminates the need for soaking hands in water. Instead, tools like scissors, nippers, and nail bits help with precise cuticle removal before applying a gel overlay. According to Zheltovski, the manicure focuses on an intricate process that ensures a pristine polish application.
Experts like Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, highlight the meticulous nature of the technique. Using drill-like tools, abrasive brushes, and sometimes scissors, this method exfoliates excess skin surrounding the nail, leaving a cleaner finish. As a result, appointments can be extended since nails take longer to grow back compared to a regular treatment.
Designed to optimize well-being, this nail treatment works for various types of nails, even those with brittleness, hangnails, or thin plates, explains Emma Eskander, Gilded Ritual salon director. Unlike the American manicure, which relies on emery board files, cuticle pushers, and water-soaking techniques, the Russian manicure uses an electronic filer with a tiny drill headpiece to remove extra cuticle from under the nail bed. This process is often described as a cuticle exfoliation and massage, leading to a flawless trim and longer-lasting polish. This also differentiates the Russian manicure vs. regular manicure, as the latter does not involve such detailed cuticle removal.
Originating in Russia and surrounding regions, the Russian manicure demands skilled precision and specialized equipment to achieve an impressively clean result. The key lies in the prep process, where each nail is meticulously cleaned before polish application. This is why the Russian manicure lasts longer—giving clients a more polished, professional look that remains intact for weeks.
Why are Russian manicures so controversial?
The Russian manicure trend has taken over TikTok, with over a billion videos dedicated to it. However, its controversial nature has sparked debates, with over 100 million videos discussing whether it’s truly safe. While many users praise the technique in the comments, a majority of dermatologists and nail techs strongly recommend against it, citing health concerns. Dr. Stern, like many experts, remains perplexed by its appeal and warns of potential risks.
The cuticle serves as a protective seal that prevents yeast and bacteria from entering the nail unit, and removing it repeatedly can lead to chronic paronychia, a painful infection. Because the Russian manicure is more aggressive than a typical one, there is a higher risk of complications unless tools are immaculately sterilized. Despite this, many nail artists and salons continue to provide the service, as their clients remain pleased with the results—experiencing no problems sans infection.
Some countries have even debated regulations around the technique, leading to discussions on “why is Russian manicure illegal” in certain areas. The concern often lies in hygiene and safety standards, as improper sterilization of tools can increase the risk of infections.
How do Russian manicures differ from regular manicures?
Unlike regular manicures, the Russian manicure focuses on meticulous cuticle prep, which can take anywhere between 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the experience of the technician. According to Zheltovski, this technique also includes a structured gel application that helps strengthen the natural nail plate, making nails look smoother and more even.
Be prepared to spend two hours at the salon for a Russian manicure, with costs ranging from $100 to $250. While this might seem like a long time and a considerable amount of money, Zheltovski believes the results speak for themselves. The manicure lasts longer, looks incredibly clean, and eliminates the need to return every 10 days for another gel mani. Instead, clients save time by getting it just once per month.
What Happens During A Russian Manicure?
When I sat down with Olga Baichimirova, a master nail technician from Kazakhstan with over 22 years of experience, she carefully explained the five steps of a Russian manicure. The process begins with prep, where the nail bed is cleaned and smoothed using a specialized electric bit, eliminating the need for a traditional water soak. This limits the potential for damaging or drying out the cuticle and ensures the following steps are optimum.
Next, Baichimirova shaped my nails. I opted for a square shape with rounded edges, which she precisely executed using a nail headpiece. Then came the most intricate part—cleaning underneath and around the cuticle. According to Eskander, this step, which includes buffing dry skin from the sides of the fingers, takes the longest—about 10 to 20 minutes per nail—but ensures a neat, well-groomed look and supports a long-lasting manicure.
The fourth step involves creating the nail architecture to enhance the treatment, coating longevity, and overall attractiveness of the nails. A strong base coat is applied to form a perfect arch on the nail bed, setting the foundation for the final step—polish. At Gilded Rituals, only 7-free gels are used, applied with specialized artist brushes for streak-free coverage. Their technique allows a thin layer of polish to be placed underneath the cuticle, so as the nail grows, it still looks natural and lasts an extra week. The process is finished with a top coat to seal everything in.
This luxury five-step process varies by location, but at Gilded Ritual, prices range from $70 for a junior technician to $120 for a master technician.
Russian Manicures vs. Gel Manicures
The difference between Russian manicures and gel manicures lies in the prep process and overall appearance. While a simple gel manicure typically just pushes back the cuticle for quicker service, the Russian manicure thoroughly exfoliates and nips any dead tissue, creating a visibly cleaner look. According to Alyssa Fronce, a nail artist and owner of Alyssa Nail Tech, this attention to detail results in a more polished, long-lasting finish.
However, you can still receive Russian manicure-style prep with traditional gel polish. In fact, Fronce explains that the perfect nail service combines a Russian manicure paired with a builder gel. Due to the prepping process of both the cuticle area and nail plate, this combination enhances strength and ensures long-lasting results. The two services go hand in hand, offering a polished, durable finish that lasts significantly longer than a standard gel manicure alone. This is especially beneficial when considering the Russian manicure vs. acrylic nails, as the former provides a natural look while still ensuring durability.
What are the benefits of a Russian manicure?
The biggest benefit of a Russian manicure is how long it lasts, sometimes up to four weeks. According to Zheltovski, there are a handful of perks that make this technique stand out. Unlike traditional methods that soak gel in acetone, this process files it down with a drill, removing 95% of the polish while keeping 5% of the product on the nail plate, provided there’s no lifting or chipping. This is then filled in with structure gel, following the same cuticle-cleaning routine. The result? Stronger nails that grow, while also preventing dehydration, breakage, and peeling.
Since exclusively switching to Russian manicures, Zheltovski has seen noticeable improvement in her nails, and she emphasizes that once you experience it, there’s no going back to a regular gel manicure. While the process takes longer—often an hour and a half—the precise cuticle work ensures color is applied under the cuticle, keeping the look fresh for weeks. The meticulous one-nail-at-a-time technique provides healthier nails, enhanced growth, and a beautiful, clean finish.
Beyond its low-maintenance appeal and fewer salon visits, the Russian manicure stands out for its high skill level and commitment to nail health. The e-filer prevents inflammation and unnecessary cuts, while the three-phase disinfection and sterilization process ensures safety by eliminating infections. Unlike other techniques that prioritize length, shape, and design, this method focuses strictly on nail health—without using acrylics or toxic gel polishes. The thin brush application eliminates the outgrown look, extending wear time.
As Baichimirova notes, many are concerned about time spent in the chair, but the intricacy of the cuticle work is worth it. Whether opting for manicures or pedicures, clients experience shinier nails, better growth, and an ultra-smooth finish that lasts double the time of a traditional manicure—truly a win-win for those seeking long-term results.
Russian manicure risks: Is it safe?
While the Russian manicure offers many aesthetic benefits, Dr. Stern warns that these can come with risks if not done correctly. The polish is applied under the proximal fold, which helps the manicure last longer than a typical one. However, this is possible because the cuticle, a protective membrane, has been breached. If improperly done, this increases the chance of infections.
On social media, many users flaunt beautiful nails, but according to Dr. Stern, she has spotted evidence of chronic paronychia in some images. The trained eye can detect signs of infection like puffy, pink, and swollen nail folds. However, Zheltovski argues that the technique itself is not necessarily to blame—it depends on seeing an experienced technician who works properly with sterilized tools. The only risk comes from a lack of education, as an e-file machine and sharp scissors are only as safe as the professional using them.
What to know before getting a Russian manicure
Before committing to a Russian-style manicure, it’s important to educate yourself on the process, price, and commitment. According to Fronce, this technique typically costs more than a simple gel manicure and requires more time. On average, she spends one to two hours to perform a Russian-style manicure with builder gel, making it a longer but more precise service.
Additionally, take the time to familiarize yourself with the potential risks. Nail damage can occur if your nail tech is not qualified or properly educated in the technique. As Fronce advises, always do your research before seeking a professional who offers this service to ensure the best results.
How to get a safe Russian manicure
If you want to try a Russian manicure, finding a qualified technician is crucial. According to Zheltovski, a good nail artist commits to a three-step sterilization process to keep their tools safe. When choosing a salon, check Instagram, Google Maps reviews, and referrals from a friend or blogger. You can also search by hashtag to see real client results. Before booking, look at their work after three to four weeks of wear—examine the cuticle, check for hanging nails, and see how long the gel lasted. The best way to check quality is by comparing before and after photos.
Dr. Stern also emphasizes seeking experienced technicians and reiterates the importance of familiarizing yourself with potential risks. She recommends choosing someone with years of experience performing this specific technique to ensure safety. Meanwhile, Danielle Sinay, the associate beauty editor at Glamour, shares her expertise on Russian manicures—you can follow her work on Instagram for more insights. If you’re looking for top-tier services, consider checking out professionals in Boston for a high-quality Russian manicure experience.
How Much Does a Russian Manicure Cost?
The cost of a Russian manicure varies depending on the special training, skilled precision, and dedicated time required for this dry manicure. Compared to a traditional gel manicure, the price can vary greatly. If you’re looking for a dry manicure without any polish or color, you can expect to spend between $50 to $70.
For those opting for a single color with a structured gel overlay, the range typically falls between $70 to $90. However, additional nail art and color choices can incur extra costs, so it’s best to inquire with your nail technician about any special designs before booking.
Final Thoughts On The Russian Manicure
With a plethora of manicure techniques available, all promising long-lasting designs and color, the intense cuticle care focus of a Russian manicure truly makes it stand out from the rest. This meticulous approach ensures a flawless, polished look that lasts much longer than traditional methods. If you’re interested in seeing real results, searching for “Russian manicure before and after” can provide helpful visuals before making a decision.
Frequently Asked Questions About Russian Manicures
What Are the Benefits of a Russian Manicure?
A major benefit of a Russian manicure is improved nail health, as it helps promote strong development and ensures careful cuticle care. The dry process and precise attention to cuticles create a faultless base, allowing the manicure to persist for weeks with long-lasting, beautiful results.
What Are the Cons of a Russian Manicure?
- Cost – A Russian manicure is expensive, typically ranging from $70 to $90 for a basic application, with extra charges for designs.
- Salon Visit Required – While kits exist, achieving professional results usually requires a salon visit due to the expertise and time commitment involved.
- Time-Consuming – Expect to spend 3-4 hours at the salon for a detailed manicure or extensions.
- Potential Nail Damage – If the technician is untrained or uses an electric drill aggressively, it can lead to thinning, weakness, or infections.
How Often Can You Get a Russian Manicure?
To maintain healthy nails, it’s best to space out appointments. Schedule visits every 3-4 weeks to align with natural growth and ensure proper nail care in between. This allows the nails to breathe and rest after a detailed treatment.
Does a Russian Manicure Use Hard Gel?
Yes, hard gel is often used for durability. It helps strengthen the nails, provides a flawless base for polish, prevents chipping, and can serve as a healthier alternative to acrylics in some situations. While typical polish is an option, hard gel is a preferred choice for those wanting long-lasting results.
Do Russian Manicures Hurt?
A Russian manicure should be painless when done by a professional technician using gentle pressure. However, individuals with sensitive nails or skin may experience irritation when their cuticles are worked on with an electric file. Improper technique can also cause cuts or nail plate damage, so it’s important to speak up if you feel discomfort and find an experienced technician who explains each step in advance.
For those in Chicago or Boston, finding a high-quality Russian manicure service ensures you receive the best results in a safe environment.